Florence, Italy: Spooning the Duomo

I arrive late to Florence, lugging my aptly named LUGGage behind me through the bustling train station. My first time here, I’m assured my hotel is in walking distance. Do people take in to account the fact you are hauling 60 plus pounds of luggage, laptops and cameras when they insist such things? So, I roll through the lively Friday night streets, passing couples with one hand in each other’s back pockets and the other carefully managing a dripping gelato cone, people walking dogs and others whooshing past on bicycles. I do notice the proudly lit architecture of the city as I scan the street names and address numbers, but I know I’ll have all day tomorrow and Sunday to soak it all in.

Street strolling in Florence

“You may have the universe if I may have Italy.” ~ Giuseppe Verdi

So I successfully navigate myself and my bags to the hotel Duomo past 11PM, glancing only briefly at the massive marble walls across from it. I check in and forgo my usual custom of peering out my hotel windows to welcome myself to my new surroundings. After a month of non-stop travel and a day of taxis, buses, ferry, vaporettos, trains and walking to get here, I do a cursory teethbrushing and water-on-face splash and collapse into bed.

Front facade and dome of the duomo, Florence, Italy

Marble Marvel

Sharing my morning cappuccino with the Duomo, Florence, Italy

I know and even sense my room is close to the Duomo I’m so eager to see the next day. But I didn’t know I was spooning it! When I booked

my room, my primary concern was location. Having only two nights in this city I’ve dreamed of visiting since teen-hood, I wanted to waste no time commuting to the heart of things. I was fairly certain that my lodgings were in close proximity to the marvel of marble that awed Michelangelo, (officially named the Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore all cathedrals are duomos in Italy, but I’m not alone in thinking of this one as THE duomo) but when I awake, and finally throw open the wooden shutters, its nearness stuns me.

I take loads of pictures as I sit on the narrow balcony sipping my cappuccino and smiling at my companion for the weekend. But truly, its grandness and beauty is difficult to capture – especially from so close! Of course I get up closer still, and sneak in my morning calisthenics by climbing up to the artfully decorated and masterfully constructed dome itself. Rewarded with stellar views, I perform some dutiful gawking and snap-shot-ing.

Ceiling fresco of Brunelleschi's dome, Duomo of Florence

Architectural detail, on top of the dome, Duomo of Florence

Looking down a supporting arch of the dome, Duomo, Florence

I spend hours enjoying the company of my nighttime companion, soaking in the magnificence of the Duomo both inside and out.  When I finally tear myself away, I join the bustling, lively Florentines and the daily goings on. I have the good fortune to experience a one-on-one tour of the city compliments of the wonderful people at Walks of Italy. I spend the better part of a day with the charming and informative Samuele, a native born to Florence, as he guides me through his city.

Walks of Italy guide Samuele with a pink Michelangelo.

Feeding the boar coins for good luck, Florence, Italy

We make a circuit where he points out the obvious gawk-worthy monuments, treasures and must-sees, and reveals to me a few more subtle attributes and traditions; such as the sentimental practice adopted by lovers across the globe of writing both names on a pad lock, affixing it to the Ponte Vecchio, and tossing the key in to the river Arno to signify an unbreakable love bond. Sadly, the authorities regularly remove the masses of locks for fear of the damage they may cause. I am enamored of the new tradition.

Mass of loverly padlocks on the Ponte Vecchio

In front of the famed Ponte Vecchio

Samuele generously shares with me his favorite gelateria and the best eatery for to-die-for lasagna and chocolate cake, Boccadama, in the Piazza Santa Croce.  Seriously, plug this in to your Google maps and get thee there – with an appetite!  If you’re nice, perhaps they’ll bestow upon you a gratis amaro montenegro to sip.  I got two! *hic.

Must-hike-twenty-miles chocolate cake at Boccadama, Florence, Italy

Fresh tomatoes just delivered at Boccadama Ristorante, Florence

In addition to chocolate need-to-hike-20-miles cake, we share a heartfelt discussion of the significance of Michelangelo’s boldly beautiful marble masterpiece, David, (I return later to the Uffizi for a second lingering gazing) as well as the astounding collection of statuary in the open air museum that is the Piazza della Signoria. I could while away hours there…wait, we did!  All worthy attractions (including the cake) and of great import.

Giambologna's The Rape of the Sabine Women, Piazza della Signoria

Benvenuto Cellini's statue of Perseus With the Head of Medusa, Piazza della Signoria, Florence

Neptune and Cosimo-I statues in the Piazza della Signoria, Florence

And now, some more mixed photos I snapped while dutifully gawking at this elegant yet approachable city:

Carousel in the Piazza della Republica, Florence

Flag bearer, Florence

The owners of a very posh goldsmiths selling jewelry and ancient coins allowed me to handle this beautiful Apollo coin, dated 2nd century BC.

The bright and beautiful atrium entry of the Four Seasons Hotel, Florence

Decadent decor inside the presidential suite, Four Seasons Florence

Reflections of a window detail, Florence

What's Florence without fashion? Temptations...

View of the bell tower from the top of the dome of the Duomo, Florence

Ancient horse hitching hoops. Now I just need a horse.

I had only two days to savor this historic and artful city.  I intend to go back and cover more ground.  What are your favorite sights and eats?  Any recommendations or secret finds I missed?

All photos by Gina Stark, unless I’m in them – at a distance 😉

Many and molto thanks to Samuele, Stephen and the darling Loredana of Walks of Italy for making my Florence experience so fruitful! And more gracious grazies to Claudia Porrello at the Four Seasons, Firenze for a truly scrumptious brunch and a lovely afternoon touring the grounds of this stellar former Medici Palace.

For more enticing Italy impressions, enjoy Venice, Italy – My Summer In Photos

‘The Sweetest Dolce of My Vita’ – Bologna, Italy

and Hiking Italy: Delving Into the Dolomites