Venice: A Thing of Beauty – Then and Now

Venice has been called the most beautiful city in the world.  After meandering and savoring it’s many delights and sights for four days, I confess I won’t stand up and challenge that statement.

Viewing the Basilica from the courtyard of the Doge's Palace, Venice

I had been to Venice before, as an 18-year old high on freedom, possibility and the adventures made available to young travelers with a Eurail pass.  I was making my way through Europe with my friend, Luisa, and without an itinerary.  Venice sounded wonderful, and was conveniently located as we made our way over to Greece with its beckoning beaches.

We stayed on Lido, an outlying island, to stay within our self-imposed budget of $5/per night for lodging. This is combined, so it was $2.50 each!  Now you must be calculating my age and thinking I’m 87 years old.  This was in 1984 and the U.S. dollar was at a nose-bleeding high level., and we were kids with low standards of accommodation and they still had shared bathrooms down the hall in most European hotels.

I remember we were entranced, even back then; even as we were happily anticipating lolling on beaches in the Greek isles.   We bought matching tank tops that said “Ciao Venezia” – we were kids, sheesh! – and I remember we wished we were there with boyfriends so we could enjoy the undeniable romantic ambiance of Venice at night.

Madonna col Bambino by Giovanni Bellini, at the Accademia Collection, Venice, Italy

We gawked at the Piazza San Marco and downed gelato as if it were loaded with vitamins.  We deflected the aggressive advances of young Italian men and we later giggled about how gorgeous they were.  I think I did very much the same on this trip.  Except for the need to deflect. *Insert introspective irked expression here*

Ca' d'or, or Golden Palace - amazing detail and design. Venice, Italy

We were struck by the undeniable beauty of a virtual floating city, crammed full of gothic and renaissance architecture, criss-crossed by canals and small arched foot bridges, peopled more by Italians than it is now.  I believe back then the merchants peddling their wares on the famed Rialto bridge were in make-shift stalls, rather than the more permanent stores flanking both sides of this crowded yet still wonderful double wide landmark.

But seeing Venice once again through the eyes of a more seasoned but still wide-eyed traveler, I must heartily agree that it certainly is one of the most beautiful cities in the world.  No other city of the size and history of Venice shares it’s unique aspect of car-lessness and extensive canals.  There are not even mopeds or bicycles dashing and weaving amongst the pedestrians. There is still a din of people chatter and boat motors and pigeons and bells, and the clatter of suitcases being wheeled over ancient cobblestone streets.  But the abundance of sheer aesthetics in art,  architecture, city layout, and yes, even food,  make visitors to Venice in danger of an overdose of beauty.