Bangkok: Orient-ation for My Volunteer Stint or: Temples, Trannies, Tigers and Toilet Paper

It sounds more exotic than it was. Also, I’m not so philanthropic that I gave no thought to my own enrichment and enjoyment by traveling once again to Thailand, a country I have thoroughly enjoyed in the past.  But this time, my final destination would be the island Ko Tao and what I hoped would be a profound experience volunteering and “making a difference”.  We’ll get to that 😉 but first! Bangkok!

My friend Patty is the kind of person who, when I sent out email feelers for anyone interested in a volunteer stint in a faraway land, answered in the enthusiastic affirmative!  She had sold her interest in her coffee shop to her partner and began a whirlwind galavant of the globe over a year prior.  Coincidentally, I, too, have now begun a similar path of world and self exploration. I prefer mapping out the world ;}.

Tuk Tuk hammock, Bangkok

OK, so, Bangkok.  A city of riotous noise, color, sound, smells, all assaulting the senses at once.  I soak it in happily, loving the weaving chaotic taxi ride that dodges tuk tuks and mopeds at every turn.  We are settled in to a modest “guest house” which is what they call the, well, the more modest accommodations throughout Thailand.  We have breakfast of the most delicious muesli with fresh tropical fruit chunks and yogurt. Mmmm. I can get used to this. (I do) Orientation begins just after breakfast and the first thing they do is welcome us with a roll of toilet paper!   This will be our handy companion throughout our stay in Thailand.  I’m feeling like a frail westerner already.

Masako covers the basics of what we can expect: 6-8 hour work days, 6 days a week. Patty and I will likely be doing beach clean-up, a bit of conservation education with the local children, and perhaps – oh please! oh please! – be required to clear up trash and debris from the ocean floor while snorkeling … Wow.

Reverence and silence, Wat Pho, Bangkok

But for now, we take advantage of our remaining time in this bustling, vibrant city.  We head out for the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, an impressive Buddhist temple.  Our cab takes over an hour to go what seems a few blocks, but we are blessed with ideal weather.  I have strolled through these grounds before, and am once again amazed at the ornate and vibrant details and workmanship of colored mirror tiles, porcelain that looks like intricate cake frosting, and myriad colorful ceramics that make up the sculptures and decoration of the Wat and the grounds.  We are “looked over” by the personnel to ensure that we are not baring too much skin on our arms, legs or midriffs.  We remove our shoes to enter the temple to view the Emerald Buddha…all very respectful and reverent, which contributed to my puzzlement at something I witnessed involving a monk… the details of which I will refrain from outlining here…but let me say this: I really HAVE seen everything now!

Street food

We make our way down to the waterfront, milling about with the throngs of locals at the open market. We ordered some street food that turned out to be delicious, and may I happily report, did not have any future ill effects.

Roti: Best street food in Thailand - hands down!

Later, we walked through bustling night markets and street vendors to arrive at Kao San Road, where we were to meet with our group.  A pedestrian only street, you can see all sorts of goings on, from sex shows – including the much touted trannies, to henna artists and people getting full corn row braids…and more street food vendors.  I introduce Patty to my favorite Thai treat: Roti! I call them banana pancakes, but they’re a hybrid of crepe and tortilla consistency and well…we’ll get well acquainted with these and the other filling options on our sojourn here.

We meet up with our co-volunteers and drag our bags through the streets to a double decker bus where we are to install ourselves for the next 8 hours (between 8:30 pm – 4:30 am) trying to find some relatively decent position in which to rest our heads and sleep. Well, at least we are in the land of massage…. will be scoping out a neck and shoulder rub at the next opportunity, you can be assured!

Read the next chapter here Thailand Part II: Beach Bar, Bonfires, Buckets and Bonding

All photos by G. Stark, unless where I’m in them.